Three Sacred Temples in Tamil Nadu — A Yātrā Report
Three Sacred Temples in Tamil Nadu — A Yātrā Report from 2019
This year’s yātrā is yet to be processed and put into words. The major difference from last year: it was planned lightly, without much organisational hassle — but with a great deal of focus on sādhana. Once back at a computer, both the 2019 and 2018 yātrās will be refreshed and put into articles on the blog as stepping stones for other yātris.
Given this year’s visits to beloved portals — Kalighat, Dakshineswar Kali Temples (Kolkata), the beloved Murugan mandirs at Palani and Ivar Malai, the magnificent Mīnākṣī Ammā Ji embrace at Madurai, and the swirling Ram’s landmarks at Śrī Rāmēśvaram — this journey unearthed three new breath-taking love affairs. Through five weeks of wandering, by the invisible hand of the all-seeing One, at the end of our graceful yātrā we were brought to three extraordinary temples in Tamil Nadu. No doubt, being there will bring you down in full prostrations.
1. Thirupullani
Thiruppullani Arulmigu Kalyana Jagannatha Perumal Temple — Divya Desam 105
One hour north from Rāmēśvaram, 20 minutes west of Rāmnāthapuram.
Keywords: Ancient temple (lakhs of years), powerful, huge reclining Rāma with Brahmā, Sūrya and Candra originating from the navel; empty of crowds; magnificent priests.
Hints: Take time to explore systematically. Do triple parikramā around each sanctum sanctorum. Visit Mahālakṣmī first, Rāma Bhavan next, finish with Ādi Jagannāth.
Located at a distance of around 12km from Ramanathapuram, Thiruppullani is a small village known for the temple of Adi Jagannatha. Dedicated to Lord Viṣṇu, the temple has a five-tiered rājagopuram facing east. The temple enshrines the idol of Lord Viṣṇu along with Śrī Devī and Bhūdevī. There is a separate shrine close to this temple, where the consort of Lord Viṣṇu — Padmasinī Devī — is worshipped. Another temple enshrines the statue of Lord Dharbasāyana Rāmar in a reclining posture.
2. Thiruvarur
Śrī Kamalambal Temple and Arulmigu Thyāgarāja Svāmy Temple
Pondicherry region, one hour west of Karaikal.
Keywords: Powerful; Tyāgrāj Śiva and Kamalambal both with two crescents (one for themselves, one for consort) and sacred threads over bodies (Devī too!); two swords — Jñāna and Vīra; the biggest tīrtha in India.
Hints: Ancient, powerful — take time to explore. Make sure to find the Śrī Kamalambal Temple, which stands outside the main complex.
The Thiruvarur Devī, Kamalambal, is the yoginī. She is the tantric focus of spiritual power. Her shrine faces north — the direction of Kailāsam — symbolising release from the cycle of birth and death. She sits cross-legged in virginal purity, contrasting the more earthy Bhoga Amman within the inner precincts.
The Ambal sannidhi complex has a great deal of mysticism built into it, with the figures and construction all according to the Śrī Vidyā concept. Muthuswamy Dīkṣitar composed nine kritis on this deity — the nava-Varṇa kritis — which practitioners of Śrī Vidyā describe as his jñāna dṛṣṭi flowing out as compositions.
3. Thirumēyachur
Śrī Mēganāthasvāmy Lalithāmbigai Temple — one of the Śakti Pīṭhas
Half an hour north of Thiruvarur on the way towards Māyiladuthurai (major train station).
Keywords: Powerful Lalithāmbigai Temple — origin of the Lalitā Sahasranāma chanting.
Hints: Get darśan of Mahāṣoḍaśī-Lalitāmbikā first, then Śiva. Offer bangles to Devī.
Foremost among the specialities of this temple is the fact that this is where Śrī Lalitā Sahasranāmam originated. Also it was here that Śrī Agastiyar composed the Śrī Lalithā Navaratnāmāla. The Goddess is referred to as Saundarya Nāyakī.
Interesting facts: Tirumiyachur has been eulogised by Tirugnānasambandar and Appar. A parrot is perched on the arm of Śrī Durgā — the bird is said to convey devotees’ messages and appeals to Śrī Lalithāmbikā. There is a beautiful sculpture of Kṣētrapurāṇeśvara and Ambal; the vimanam of the Śrī Mēganāthasvāmy temple is Gajabṛṣṭa.
